Tuesday, 20 March 2012
Don't stop me now, I'm on a roll! I made these yoga socks a while ago now and although I'm in the middle of making up yoga socks # 2, I think the first pattern is good enough to put up here!
This pattern is one size again, but can be tried on and adjusted as you go, feel free to adjust the number of rows in the cuff, the length of the chain at the start of the foot section, the number of rows...
I made these with about half a skein of jitterbug again, and with a 3.5mm hook.
1: ch 19, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc across, turn (18)
2-46: ch1, sc in back loop only across, turn.
Sl st together the back loop only and the bumps in the underside of the beginning ch. Fasten off.
1: Rejoin yarn in the end of the 15th row end, ch1 and sc in same st as join, work 1 sc in each row end for another 21 rows (22sc in total), ch27 (49)
2:sc in first sc of row one (the remainder of the sock is worked in the round), you might want to use a stitch marker here to mark the start of the round
3-22: sc around
continue to sc around until you are level with the first st again (usually 1 extra st for every 4 rows - I worked an extra 5 sc), sl st in next st, fasten off, weave in ends.
Having been promising since before Christmas, I finally got around to making up some new socks for my daughter. She has quite small feet but this pattern can be adjusted quite easily, although be sure to end up with an even number of stitches at the start of the leg as if you work odd you will end up with granite stitch! (This pattern is for shoe size UK 6). Based on cuff down socks I've made previously, this is what I came up with:
I used about half a 110g skein of colinette jitterbug in raspberry and a 3.5mm hook (written in American terms).
1.Ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, turn (5sc)
2-30: Ch1, sc back loop only across, turn.
sl st together to form the cuff by working in the back loops and underside bumps of the starting ch. Do not break yarn!
1: working along the edge of the cuff, work (sc in 2 row ends, 2sc in next) around (40sc)
2-16: Without joining rounds, work sc, ch1, sk 1, sc around for 15 rows. Work (sc, ch1, sk1 sc) twic more to bring last st level with cuff seam.
1: sc in next 20, turn leaving remaining st unworked
2-8: ch1, sc across (20 sc)
9: ch1, sc in 1st st, sc2tog, (sc in next 2 st, sc2tog) across, sc in lst st, turn (15)
10: ch1, sc in first 2 st, (sc2tog, sc) across, sc in lst 2 st, turn (11)
11: ch1, sc in first st, (sc2tog, sc) across, sc in last 2 st, turn (8)
12: ch1, sc2tog across (4)
Do not turn or break yarn!
13: ch1, work 11 sc up the side, work in pattern across pattern section (should be 10 repeats of sc, ch1, sk1) 11sc down other side of heel. Leave remaining sts unworked, do not turn!
14: (no ch 1 as sock is worked in a round from here: you may want to put a stitch marker in first stitch of the round and move it up on each new round) sc across the 4 unworked sts, sc in 9 sts along side of heel, sc2tog in last 2 on side, work in pattern across, sc2tog at top of next side, sc in next 9
3: 2sc2tog, sc along side, work in pattern, sc along other side
4: sc2tog, work in sc/patt/sc around (40)
5-24: work in established pattern around (40)
Fold sock to find central stitch on the sole, work round to this point and mark as first stitch of round
1: sc in next 8 (inc. first marked st), sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in next 15, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in last 7 st (36)
2: sc around
3: sc in first 7 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in next 13, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in last 6 (32)
4: sc in first 6 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in next 11, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in last 5 (28)
5: sc in first 5 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in last 4 (24)
6-7: repeat pattern
8: sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in next 3, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc in last 1, slst in first st of next round, fasten off with a long enough tail to sew toe.