Galaxy Scarf

While in my LYS before Christmas, I bought 2 skeins of King Cole Galaxy.  Not something I would usually buy but I wanted to make a slightly sparkly gift without all the concentration and time needed when using beads.  This yarn is perfect for the job as it is 'pre-sequinned' (is that even a term?!) so I caved in and bought it!
This is what I came up with:

Here's what I did:

6.5mm hook
2 x 50g King Cole Galaxy
Stitch marker

I worked the flat section in the middle in rows, back and forth.  For the ruffle, I worked in a continuous round around the outside until I was happy with the level of ruffliness, in my case 5 rows.

The finished scarf is 52", for a longer scarf start with a longer chain, making sure it is an even number.  (Make sure you have enough yarn!)

  Loosely ch 180
1.  Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, *ch1, sk1, sc* to end, turn (179)
2.  Ch1, *sc in sc, ch1, sk ch sp* across, sc in last, turn (179)
3 - 14: Repeat row 2

You will now work in rounds, a stitch marker is placed in the first st so you don't get lost!  These are continuous rounds that you don't need to join.
You will turn your work to begin working in the short side.  You will need to work *sc, ch1* across this short side, working each sc in the corresponding row end (14 sc made, 13 ch sps) - from now on you won't be skipping any ch sps, they will all be worked in .

Rnd 1: Ch1 and pivot your work, *sc, ch1* along the first short side in the end of each row, ch1 and turn to work along the bottom, *sc, ch1* across the length of this row, ch1 and turn to work across the short side being sure to work 14 sc into this end too!  *sc, ch1* across short side, ch1 and turn to work along the top, *sc, ch1*  in all sc and ch sp, along to the marked st.
Rnd 2-5: continue in *sc, ch1* pattern for another 4 rounds or more if wanted, moving the marker up to keep track of the rounds.  Each round should be double the stitch count of the last, creating the ruffled effect.

Weave in the ends and wear or gift :)

Sari Silk Scarflette

While I was up in Haworth, North Yorkshire a couple of summers ago visiting family, I wandered off the cobbled street and into a fairtrade shop.  Among the incense and fair trade clothes I found a basket of fair trade recycled sari silk skeins.  I bought one which has been in my stash ever since due to a lack of inspiration.  I loved the jewel colours but at the time I was taking on more challenging patterns and didn't want to work the plain stitches that would be needed so as not to lose the texture and colour of the silks.

Fast forward to this weekend and I stumbled across the silk yarn again.  I had half an idea to use the birch bark cowl pattern but I quickly realised it would be tricky to work into the chain spaces so I went with this pattern instead.

My finished scarflette measures 32" x 5" approx.  Keep an eye on the amount of yarn you have left as you come towards the last row, you may need to drop one of the repeats so you don't run out of yarn!

You Will Need:

• 100g sari yarn.  Mine looks to be dk/worsted weight but I don't know the yardage, sorry!
• 6mm hook
• button to finish, this will need to fit through one of the gaps created by the ch sp

Start by chaining 100
1.  sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn (99)
2.  ch1, sc in first st, *ch1, sk 1, sc* across to last, turn
3.  Ch1, sc in first st, *ch1, sk ch sp, sc in sc* across to last, turn

Repeat row 3 for 13 more rows

17.  Ch1, sc in each sc and ch sp across to end, fasten off and weave in ends.

Sew on button as wanted and wear!

Lilac cowl

So I got some gorgeous bulky weight alpaca in the sale from wharfedale woolworks and I wanted a quick project that I could pick up and put down without too much thought while the kids were still on holiday from school.  I wanted to make a larger version of my birchbark cowl, this pattern uses the same stitch pattern but a larger hook to make the fabric more floaty.

Finished cowl measures approx 30" x 6"

You will need:
100g (100m/110yds) bulky weight (12 ply) alpaca
9mm hook (M/N)
3 x 1 - 1.5" buttons

1.  Ch71, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn
2.  Ch1, sc, (ch1, sk1, sc) across, turn.
3.  Ch1, sc in 1st st, (sc in ch sp, ch1, sk sc)across, sc in last 2 st, turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 17 more rows (or until cowl is size needed).

21.  Ch1, sc in each sc and ch sp across, fasten off.

Weave in ends, sew on buttons on both corners of the short side and check placement of third button before attaching.  There are no buttonholes for this project, the buttons need to be able to slip through the holes made in the fabric.  Block if needed.

Flaming Beanie

Back in the summer I did a local craft fair and sold a one-off hat I'd made with some left over merino I'd got from Wharfedale Woolworks .  I'd meant to write down the pattern but hadn't got around to it but I had a vague idea how I'd gone about it...  Fast forward to December and I got a message from the person who'd bought the hat wanting me to make another one for her.  I asked the customer to send me a pic and set to work making this:

It took 3 attempts to remember what exactly I'd done, so I wrote it down this time in case I need to make it again!
You will need:  100g dk weight main colour (I used King Cole merino blend Heather),
50g contrast colour (CC) (King cole merino blend dusky pink),
4.5mm Hook
Stitch markers

This pattern is for a 20" circ hat, it fits quite snugly because it uses tapestry crochet.  To make a larger or smaller hat, add or take away increase rounds, 6 sc = 1 1/2 "

This pattern uses tapestry crochet where you carry the colour not being worked underneath and stitch it into your work as you go.  It is important to not carry the yarn too tightly so that your hat still has some give in it when you wear it.  If you need some info on the technique have a look on you tube, there are lots of great tutorials :)

1.  Ch2, in 2nd ch from hook work 6sc
2.  (You will be working in a continuous spiral, place marker in first stitch of this round and move marker up to the first stitch of each new round), 2sc in each sc around (12)
3. *2sc, sc* around (18)
4.  *2sc, sc in next 2 sts* around (24)
5.  *2sc, sc in next 3 sts* around (30)
6.  *2sc, sc in next 4 sts* around (36)
7.  *2sc, sc in next 5 sts* around (42)
8.  *2sc, sc in next 6 sts* around (48)
9.  *2sc, sc in next 7 sts* around (54)
10.  *2sc, sc in next 8 sts* around (60)
11.  Sc in each st around (60)
12.  *2sc, sc in next 9 sts* around (66)
13.  sc in each st around
14.  *2sc, sc in next 10 sts* around (72)
15.  sc in each st around
16.  *2sc, sc in next 11 sts* around (78)
17.  sc in each st around
18.  *2sc, sc in next 12 sts* around (84)
19.  sc in each st around
20.  *2sc, sc in next 13 sts* around (90)
21 - 37:  sc around
38:  In this round the pink is added.  Carry the CC yarn under the stitches and pick it up and swap it to work stitch in every six in pink.  It may be helpful to mark out every six stitches to keep track of where you are - I added a stitch marker in every 12 stitches.  What I did was to randomly put in a pink stitch in each group of 6.  Randomly work from these combinations: 
(sc in next 5 changing to CC in last st worked, sc CC in last st changing to MC)
(sc in next 4 changing to CC in last st worked, sc CC in 5th st changing to MC, sc in last)
(sc in next 3 changing to CC in last st worked, sc CC in 4th st changing to MC, sc in next 2)
(sc in next 2 changing to CC in last st worked, sc CC in 3rd st changing to MC, sc in next 3)
(sc in first st changing to CC in last st worked, sc CC in 2nd st changing to MC, sc in next 4)
(sc in first st changing to MC in last st worked, sc in next 5 st)
39:  Continuing in the same fashion, in this round you will need to fill in 2 sts in every 6 using the CC - some of these might be 2 sts next door to each other, some separated by one or more sts
40.  3 in every six sts to be filled in using CC
41.  4 in every six sts to be filled in using CC
42.  5 in every six sts to be filled in using CC
43 - 47: sc around.  Check sizing by trying hat on (my hat measured approx 8" crown to brim), if you need to make it a bit bigger, add a few more rounds in the CC.  Once you are happy, work round to the stitch marker marking the first st of the round, sl st in the next 2 sts and fasten off. 

Weave in ends and wear!  Don't forget to post project pics on ravelry, I'd love to see what colour combos you come up with.  You could also try thsi hat in 3 (or more) colours by following the same method to fade into another colour...

Orange

Such an underrated colour!  One of the lovely testers for my steampunk mitts pattern, Denvermama, made hers in a gorgeous orange, and I promised myself once I'd done my tax return (yawn...) I'd treat myself to a skein or two (or three!). 
And so it was that I ended up trawling the latest offerings from Fyberspates.  And this is what I got, ta-da!

Totally gorgeous, especially against the silver :)  FYI (and because I like to be an enabler on occasion) these are both Twizzle 4 ply, in silver and burnt orange.
Now, these yarns were supposed to be earmarked for some more steampunk mitts for a craft fair I'm doing in December.  Instead I have seconded them to the shawl department and I'm planning on a stripy version of my Urban Shawl pattern.  If there's any left over after that I shall make some mitts!

steampunk mitts/cuffs

I've now released the pattern - it's available for free for a short time only in my ravelry store after which the pattern will be on sale for the very reasonable price of £1.  They come in 2 sizes and can be finished as either mitts or cuffs.  They are also super-quick to make - great for stash busting as well as last minute gifts - I'm planning to make up a few pairs for Christmas gifts this year.  I'm also going to experiment with some hand dyed yarn and see what happens...!

My testers are putting their projects up on ravelry for this pattern - they've all enjoyed making this pattern too - check out their projects on this here page!

How could I forget?!

I've also released Marcus' snood pattern on ravelry here - what a handsome pup! It's a free pattern but I'm asking people to make a small donation to GRWE if they like the pattern.

I will be revisiting the pattern over the coming months and adding some other sizes hopefully, I'm not sure whether to fiddle around with the pattern itself or sub in and out with different yarn weights and hooks...

MrJoeyGrey - I am unable to reply to your question in comments, I have been trying all weekend but no luck!  In answer to your question, after you have worked into the last stitch of the short row, the next stitch along will need you to drop down to the longer row.  If you don't pick up an extra loop you will end up with a small hole in the fabric. 
To pick up a loop and close the gap, push your hook through one of the strands in the side of the short rows and pull up a loop, keep this loop on the hook and drop down and pick up a loop (sc) as you normally would, from the next stitch.  Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.  Essentially what you are doing is working a sc2tog, so you are not increasing the stitch count, just closing the gap.
I hope this makes sense and I look forward to seeing your project!  If you need any more help please feel free to comment on my post, or pm me on ravelry (redclover) so I can reply directly!